Give fly gear some TLC now for a worry-free spring

As the deer seasons wind down and the snow begins to pile up, it is time to put away the last few things still out in the yard and also to take care of a task that was set aside while you were getting ready for the deer hunt: Cleaning up and doing some routine preventative maintenance on the fly tackle before putting away most of it until spring.

These days fly-tackle care presents nothing approaching the effort that was required when cane rods, silk fly lines and gut leaders were the most modern gear available. Spending a relatively small amount of time in giving your fly gear just a bit of TLC will ensure that the equipment is in the best possible shape and is ready to go, with no unexpected problems, when you pull it out of the closet at the last minute on your way out the door to next spring's trout opener.

With that in mind, here are items that should be on every person's Fly Gear TLC Checklist:

Fly lines

Fly lines are comparable in a way to speakers of a stereo system: You can have the best gear in the world, but if the "working end" of the set-up doesn't perform well, you've wasted money on all of the rest of the gear. Fly lines get dirty. A dirty fly line will neither float as well nor shoot as smoothly as it should. Most lines will get dirtiest near the tip, where the line joins the leader. You can dunk any fly line in a sink of warm water with a mild detergent, rinse it and run it through a soft towel. Fly-line dressings will improve performance for the short term but then actually attract dirt to the line as time passes.

Most good-quality fly lines are self-lubricating, so no additional treatment is necessary. If the line is cracked, it is time for a new line. Most fly lines will last a few years or more, perhaps for five years, though just a year or two may be expected with very heavy use.

Reels

First, ensure that the reel is clean. On the stream, if grit gets in the reel, I open it up and give it a quick dunk; often that will do the job. If the reel shows signs of grit, or if the lubricant has broken down to the point where it is no longer doing the job, give the reel a bath in warm water with mild soap and a good rinse.

Not all reels require lubricant. For many reels the drag mechanism is totally enclosed. If you are not sure whether your reel requires lubrication, get it clean then check in at your local fly shop for their advice on whether or not to lube. Last but not least, I always double check all the screws and nuts on those reels that have them to ensure that everything is tight and sound.

Rods

Modern fly rods require very little care. There is not much other than a car door, the screen door or getting hit with a poorly cast weighted fly that will damage your rod. If your rod is older or gets a fair amount of use, closely inspect the guides for wear.

Worn (rough) guides need to be replaced. Not only do they decrease the ease and distance of your cast, they also chew up the moderately expensive high-quality fly line that you invested in.

Other than that, a little candle wax or paraffin on the top couple inches of the male ferrule help prevent wear if the rod is frequently set up and taken apart. If your rod is a bit dirty, particularly the cork grip, and shows signs of wear then I say, "Good on ya!" It is a sign that you may be getting on the stream as often as you would like.

Waders and boots

As with most of the other gear, clean and dry is the most important factor. Turning your waders inside out to dry after every outing is a very good habit. After they're dry on the outside, turn them right-side-out to hang and store them. Give the boots a good cleaning and you are probably good to go. Certain wading boots, real leather boots for example, require a bit more care such as annual treatment with Scotch Leather Water Repellant Spray. Store your waders in a cool, dry place, away from your boat motor, gas cans, trolling motor battery and any running electric motors.

Vest

Of course, this is primarily an organizational issue. To make sure that you are ready to go when you hit the stream in the spring, organize and inventory your vest. Check out your tools and gadgets. Inventory your leaders, tippet material, floatants and the like. Make a shopping list now and stick it in the pocket of your vest so that you are ready for the first stop of the season at the fly shop and are not caught short on the stream.

Flies

This is the item that often takes the most time, particularly if you fish at least semi-regularly. There is nothing quite as frustrating as opening up a fly box in the spring to find flies with rusted eyes or hooks or to find gaping holes in the fly selection. This is an activity I generally set aside for an occasion when I am half-watching the TV or a movie.

Working through each box, pull off flies that are really beat up or dirty. A bit of washing in warm water may be in order. Hitting a sorry-looking dry fly with a bit of steam can often bring back the hackle and/or wings to good condition. Of course, reorganizing the flies, returning them to pattern and size groupings, while also doing a basic inventory and making a shopping list of have-to-have flies will help ease your entry into next year's fly fishing season.

Winter is setting up for a long stay across the Upper Midwest. The outdoor chores, save for shoveling snow and bringing in firewood, are quickly coming to an end. Take the opportunity to set up by the fire or in front of the TV, give your fly gear a bit of TLC and prepare yourself for a hassle-free first trip to the stream come next spring.